21 October 2017

Frostgrave: Ulterior Motives

Frostgrave Ulterior Motives is a neat little expansion that introduces individual missions to Frostgrave scenarios. Changing the XP wizards will get and add another level to whatever mission you're playing.

The quests in Ulterior Motives use 7 different objectives and red hearings (fake objectives to confuse the enemy):

An Archway, a Pit, an Arcane Circle, a Statue, a Trapdoor, a Sarcophagus, a Runestone and a Zombie.

Here's my version of the above. Mostly made with recycled polystyrene and my hot cutter. The 14$ hot cutter tool is amazing (more on it here).

Terrain pieces are based on hard plastic (recycled yogurt lids). The polystyrene is painted with first a charcoal grey / woodglue mix. Then drybrushed with a light grey / woodglue mix. The two layers of glue adds a lot of strength to polystyrene kits.

Making them with the hot cutter also strengthen it, the melted edges don't break as easy.

The snow is home made. A mix of white aquarium sand, wood glue, baking powder and white acryllics (in use here on my houses).

Lastly the entire pieces are sprayed with matt white spray paint, from approximately 60 cm (2'). Gives a nice frosted look and ties all my Frostgrave terrain together.

Rune Stone
Evergreen ivy plant made from cheap chinese flock. Two pieces of polystyrene - base and stone. Glued and toothpicked together.

I had already found a nice old toy knight, that I wanted to stand on a plith. But I found this statue for €1,5 in the second hand store. Added a polystyrene stonework base and a skull. Painted emerald eyes on it, as this is a thing on a Ulterior Motive card.

Made from three pieces of polystyrene. Based on an mdf base. Tiles on the base are simple cardboard pieces.

Cut from one piece of polystyrene - the stairs were a bit tricky. Room enough on each step for a 25mm round base. After frost coating the piece, I painted the pit buttom clear black. Seems to be deeper this way.

Arcane Circle
Super easy piece to do. Cut a disc and made a pentagram in it with the hot cutter.

This one I made from cork, for putting hot stuff on, they cost nothing in Ikea and a great for a lot of terrain. Added some bits with super glue and painted the whole thing as stone. This will go into my Mausoleum when I've build one of those.

Made from greenstuff on a yogurt lid base. Bolts are made with the excellent greenstuff mold from Green Stuff World. Stonework from Ikea cork.

15 October 2017

Devil's Run: Freelancers

In the first Devil's Run there were a couple of Freelancers. Characters and cars able to join all factions in the game.

The model is done as the car Mad Max drives in the movies. A very nice sculpt. I wanted to try some flame work, so did that. I would like another one at some point, just paint it matt black and dusty.

Added some armor to the rear windows. Made of thin currogated plastic from a box of chocolates.

Muggy and Geralt
There were multible muggy characters in the first Devil's Run kickstarter. And there's an entire muggy expansion coming for the next edition, Hell's Highway. It's a nice little car.

The biker is made from two different miscast bikes. A skinner bike front and a law bike rear. The skulls are 20mm resin pieces from Black Dog miniatures. I'll have to make a card for this bike at some point.

5 October 2017

Terrain Tutorial: Polystyrene Cliffs

Having fairly limited space and hobby time, I always try to make models and terrain for multiple gaming systems.

This is a tutorial for some almost free cliffs I've made. I made these for the following games I play (or want to play): Deadzone, Scrappers, AutoKill and Frostgrave.

I've made this square and flat topped, because it gets better play area for skirmish shooter games and use as dungeon walls. 

  • Hot Cutter
  • Polystyrene blocks
  • Sand, dark paint, woodglue mix
  • Granite effect spray
  • Grey paint, woodglue mix
  • Flock
  • Thinned, green paint, woodglue mix
Step 1 - Mark it out
I bought a super cheap hot cutter from AliExpress (you can find them on Ebay as well). Bought mine for 13$ including shipping. A wonderful tool for the price, easy to work with. 

Mark out the block you want to cut on polystyrene (I picked mine up for free a the recycle station). I've made sure to work in 3'' blocks, for perfect fit in Deadzone. 

 Step 2 - Cut it out!
The hot cutter needs time to warm up. I'll do one cut, then it needs to warm a bit again. If it's too cold, it'll draw annoying polystyrene strings from the material.

A nice effect from using the hot cutter, is that the melted polystyrene is stronger. It will not tear as easily as normally.

Step 3 - Cut the edges
Make cut off here and there, giving the cliff some rock shape. I've tried to make sure the base is as close to a 3'' square as possible.

Step 4 - First paint layer
Make a mix of wood glue, dark paint and sand (add water if too thick). Paint the rock with the batter. This will work for shading the granite effect. The glue will strengthen the terrain piece and make sure the spray paint don't melt it.

Step 5 - Second paint layer
I bought a granite effect spray paint at the hardware store. Super fast to use. I also come in as sandstone or terracotta. But I figures granite would work best for most games.

Make sure to only give the rock a thin coat. It'll leave the deep areas dark and lets the first layer be slighty visible. A thick layer of the granite spray is too light. It takes around 24 hours for this spray to harden.

Step 6 - Flock
I've added some flock to a third of the cliffs. My flock is homemade with a recycled blender, foam matress and green paint.

Mix grey into your glue and paint it on the clif. Press a big handful of flock into the glue, a lot, the more the better. Leave it to dry and don't take it off until it's all dry.

Step 7 - Strengthen the flock
I've thinned some wood glue and green paint. I've then dapped it onto the flock, very lighty. The mix needs to be thin, so it'll just run into the flock. When it's dry, it'll help the flock stay in place. It gets pretty strong. 

Finished cliffs
I've made a lot of cliffs, in many different sizes. Enough to fill out some boards in rocky terrain. Here's examples of the above in different boards. The mats I use for most photos are cheap felt mats from excellent Ceri Designs.

Top side scenarios in the city. The light rocks fit fairly well into the frostty look I'm going for on my other Frostgrave terrain. An easy way to get quick bulk and line of sight blockers on the board - that doesn't look out of place. With only a handful of building, my 3'x4' table is good enough.

For the underground Frostgrave scenarios - in caverns and dungeons. Throwing in a some furniture and I have a decent 3'x3' dungeon. I need to make myself some walls, for a proper dungeon - I'll use the same method as above.

Scrappers is a cool little system by Osprey Games. Very nice rulebook, it's a sandbox system that allows use of pretty much any post apocalyptic og sci-fi models in your collection. 

I don't have much 20mm specific terrain. But the rocks will work well for a wasteland board with my 20mm vehicles.

Lastly they are for use in Deadzone. I've made enough cliffs to fill the standard 2'x2' Deadzone mat. It looks pretty good with nothing but rocks and scatter terrain. This is a double mat 4'x2' board filled up.

4 October 2017

Terrain Tutorial: Frostgrave Trees

I've bought some cheap trees from China Ebay (AliExpress) - but you can find stuff like this anywhere. Really ugly on their own, one kind looked like green bottle brushes. But with a minimum amount of work and almost free materials, you can get this result.

  • Cheap trees
  • Woodglue
  • Cork sheet
  • Sand
  • Cheap spray paint
  • Optional: Hot glue gun

Step 1 - Bases
You can use whatever base you want. I've bought a set of drill saw bits, my bases are 64mm. Cut from recycled wood/mdf sheet. Found at the local grocery store.

Step 2 - Bricks
Cut a bunch of bricks from cork sheet. I've found mine at Ikea - super cheap and a good material. I've made fairly irregular sizes.
Step 3
Using wood glue and cork tiles build a two layer circle. I've made sure it's not even or symmetrical - guessing a 1000 year blizzard will wreck anything nice.

Step 4 - paint
I've used cheap spray paint. Using brown spray in the middle and then thin coats of grey. I've done no drybrushing or detail paint - the tecture and colour of the cork is enough. It's visible through the grey paint.

Step 5 - Finishing touches
Glue the trees into place with woodglue or a hot glue gun. I've made a snow paint from a mix of sand, baking soda, white acryllic and snow flock. I've painted both the trees and the bases with it.

Lastly I've given the trees a light coat of matt white spray paint - from 60cm (2'). Giving a nice frosty effect on it all - this is done to all my Frostgrave terrain. It really helps biding it all together.

A couple of hours work, start to finish. Very nice and super cheap trees.

2 October 2017

Frostgrave: Houses

Just finished some houses from Figurebitz (no website, only facebook). Very nice mdf kits and the first mdf kits I got myself. Super cheap as well. This is part of my Frostgrave collection.

I painted the elements with cheap spray paint before assembly. Primed the walls white, then grey. The timbered parts were sprayed black. Roofs are wolf grey by Army Painter (blueish) with a verdigris paint on each roof tile.

Snow is made from a mix of flock, sand, bakingsoda, glue and white acryllic paint.

Lastly I've covered the entire buildings in matt white spray paint from a distance of around 60cm (2ft) for a nice frosty looks. Binds all the Frostgrave terrain nicely together.

Small ruin
Only upgrade to the kit. I added a wooden floor. It's just thin cardboard with texture painted in with a pencil, before basecoating it all.

Tudor House
This set is actually not meant to be a ruin. But I want my entire city in ruins. So I cut holes in each storey and painted it like burned areas. Besides looking cool it'll also add some easy acces and better line of sight lines during gaming.

Also added wooden floors to this building.

The house is easy to take apart during gaming if entering the building.

23 September 2017

17 September 2017

Walking Dead: Safety behind Bars

Finished up the second expansion of Kickstarter wave 2, of The Walking Dead. Safety Behind Bars is the part of the story line where the survivors live in the Prison.

Insane Morgan and Walker Duane
I've been painting both miniatures in the same colours as I used on their earlier version. The first models were primed black and these were primed brown. ... The difference in colours is huge. It's especially noticeable on Morgans skin.

The first version was in a box, so I didn't notice the different it made until after painting him.
Axel, Thomas, Andrew and Dexter
The four inmates from the Prison. Living there when the heroes arrive.
Andrea - Prison Sniper
Shown here next to her first version from wave 1. I decided to use the same colours for the cloths on all models like this. It'll give a nice feel when running campaigns, where survivors might get new gear.
Rick - Prison Advisor
The Riot Gear versions of the heroes are awesome. And I'm looking forward to getting both Maggie and Glenn in riot gear as well. They look so cool.
Eugene and Harold
These guys are a bit weirdly placed in this expansion. These guys are pit fighters from Woodbury, so they would really have been better fitting in that expansion. A nice couple of thug models though.
Prison Walkers
Painted up the two walkers from the expansion. They are shown here along side two walker from the farm expansion, that I painted up as prisoners. I really want a totalt of 6 prison walkers, so hopefully in a future expansion, they'll the fitting models.
Pet Walkers
Michonnes two walker family members. I've bough two mdf bases for these guys. So that they'll be easier to move around together. When I get those painted up, I'll make some chain pieces for the models.
Prison Guard Walkers
These models are awesome, and a lot harder to kill. There's only two of these guys in the expansion (and another in a retail booster). But I wanted a lot, as you place these on the map if a survivor with riot gear dies. I've made copies of the two models, with a home made press mold and greenstuff.

I've drilled and inserted paper clips in arms and legs, to give them strength. Then I've hot water bend the original models for more poses.

Notice that their legs and arms (and one is simply missing) are posed differently.